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The Other Italian Alpine Lake - Lake Maggiore

12/18/2019

13 Comments

 
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Ever since George Clooney bought Villa Oleandra, Americans have been flocking to Lake Como in the Italian Alps. But, for the moment, the Italians still have nearby Lake Maggiore to themselves. Thanks to LinkedIn, Richard was able to reconnect earlier in the year with Daniele, a former work colleague, who grew up and still lives on this picturesque lake. This renewed friendship led to a fabulous week in a place we'd not likely have ever visited and that we got to know through the eyes of a proud native.

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We enjoyed our first ride on the "Italo" high-speed train line. The hour and fifteen minute ride from Bologna to Milan was fast and comfortable. It would take us about the same time to go half the distance from Milan to Verbania on the standard "regional" train. Then a short bus ride took us to our AirBnB in Intra - "All New - Vacation on Lake Maggiore" - where we quickly settled in after picking up groceries at the nearby COOP Supermarket (we love grocery stores in new places - a real window on the local culture).

​Daniele - who we learned is way more adventurous than we - was arriving late from an impromptu trip to Tbilisi Georgia ("Why? Because the flight was cheap.") so we arranged to catch up with him the following evening. After nearly 20 years we immediately recognized each other and shared a good Italian embrace. He gave us a quick walking tour of Intra and we caught up over an aperitivo at one of his favorite cafes. He happened to mention that there was a jazz concert that evening at the new theatre "Il Maggiore" and we all agreed to meet there. The building was fascinating and the music was top notch - made us miss being close to Berklee College.

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The next morning Daniele took us up to the top of nearby "Mottarone" for his favorite view of the area. We saw our first snow since arriving in Europe and were glad for all the layers we wore. The views of the Alps and the many area lakes were worth the hike up the mini ski slope.

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On the way down, Daniele's 13-year-old Mini overheated and had to be left at a roadside garage. The unexpected trouble led to a lively chat over coffee as we waited for his wife Renata to pick us up. He was filled with stories of his adventurers as a tour guide around the world. His habit of finding lo-cost flights (using "SkyScanner" with the destination of "Everywhere") and taking them wherever they led inspired us to do the same. At Renata's suggestion, they dropped us off in Stresa where we hopped a ferry across the lake past the Barromean Islands with their beautiful villas and gardens before hiking around the peninsula from Pallanza to Intra along the lake. 

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On the way, Nancy noticed a tall hill across the lake with what looked like a ski-lift going to the top. Sure enough, the next morning Daniele texted us and recommended that we take another ferry to Laveno-Mombello and ride the cable cars to the top of the hill. Nowhere had any of the tour guide sites mentioned this, and it was a hoot. The cable cars fit two people standing up (we opted for the open version) and the ride up is a good ten minutes to more amazing views of the lake. We enjoyed a glass of wine and an Aperol Spritz at the hilltop cafe and hiked a bit further up the hill. We had a good laugh when we saw the unprotected platform dangling off the hillside that we later learned was used by hang gliders as their take off point - an insurance liability to say the least. On the ferry back we bumped into Daniele who had come on his own for a hike up the hill (no cable cars for him!) and enjoyed the sunset cruise back to Intra.

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Following Daniele's suggestion we ventured out to the nearby town of Cannobio where there was a bustling lake-side market every Sunday that attracted as many Swiss as Italians. We splurged on a wedge of truffle-laced Pecorino (sheep's milk cheese). When we missed the bus back we camped out at a nice cafe and collaborated on an overdue blog post while waiting for the next one. The American Christmas music playing in the background made the moment bittersweet.

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Daniele and Renata had us over for dinner where we met their 18-year-old son Ricardo who'll be spending his Christmas break in Nepal - no surprise, the trip is a gift from his parents. We discovered that we all were in love with Camogli and that they met when Daniele presented a slide show of his adventures in Galapagos. Daniele did all the cooking - have you ever had blueberry risotto? We had long hugs at the end of the night, grateful for all the time and advice they shared with us.

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Our final night on Lake Maggiore was our 42nd Wedding Anniversary. We dined in style at Daniele's favorite Intra restaurant - La Latteria - where he and Renata had just enjoyed their own anniversary dinner two nights before. As we sipped our wine we vowed to try to return to the lake in the late summer.

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13 Comments
Martha H Gallagher
12/24/2019 07:16:08 am

Wow - what a wonderful anniversary story! Love to you both and Merry Christmas from Belmont! Love, Roger and Martha

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Kathleen roy
12/24/2019 07:27:35 pm

Love that your having such great experience!Happy Anniversary!

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Deborah Baye
12/24/2019 07:45:43 am

Sounds so fantastic to explore and enjoy!

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Glen
12/24/2019 08:37:43 am

Nancy and Richard: I was just thinking of you both yesterday, wondering when we might all hear from you next. And then your new blog post arrived this morning!

Thanks for sharing all of that great stuff. Really, every part of the post is so wonderful, from the two-person stand-up gondola ride to that Frank Gehry looking theatre Il Maggiore.

As we approach Christmas Eve tonight, please know that you'll be in all our thoughts. I have no doubt the two of you will find some amazing way to spend the evening.

Please keep the magic going for another 42 years!

Glen

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Wayne Stein
12/24/2019 09:12:03 am

What an amazing trip so far! Happy Holidays in such a beautiful location!

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Jeanne Mooney
12/24/2019 10:09:03 am

Dear Nancy and Richard,
It’s a delight to read your posts. Cooking up travel with planning, curiosity, and spontaneity is certainly serving up fun adventures for you two. Love the pictures.

Looking forward to hearing about your time with Ariane and Stefan. Merry Christmas.

Love, Jeanne & Joel

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Mary Ann
12/24/2019 10:27:16 am

Love these posts. We’ve been to Lake Como and Lake Garda (phenomenal). Will try Maggiore next time.

Merry Christmas!!!

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Roger Brown
12/24/2019 03:51:14 pm

You two are doing it! So happy for you and all these adventures. A shame Nancy is too shy to meet any new people along the way....

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Marilyn M Yee
12/24/2019 09:21:34 pm

Happy Anniversary you two!! What a wonderful story. Thinking of you on this Christmas Eve. Merry Christmas!!!

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Dianne Caso link
12/25/2019 07:05:57 am

Buon Natalie! Following your journey is like reading a good book....... (Santa was here
He left a really sweet gift) ........Can’t wait for the next chapter

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Sandra
12/25/2019 10:54:56 am

Hey. It’s your sista. Wish I was there. We’re in eastie making the rounds. I tried to reach Bridget. I left a message. I hope it’s the right number. Send it to me. Love. We’re on our way back to Martha’s Vineyard tomorrow morning. Merry Christmas.

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Marie Zinna
12/27/2019 08:24:13 pm

Love the blog. Love the journey. Keep them coming.

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Kate
12/28/2019 05:00:07 pm

Wow, do I ever love reading your blog! Its the most interesting mail I've gotten for years. What good writing about such amazing circumstances and hook ups. You'll soon have a book. Food, sights, experiences, adventures --ou sure do know whaere to go! A delight!

Where next?

Kate

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